Author: Modern Athlete

Sometimes runners take on other challenges, be it multisport, obstacle racing or adventure racing, or even hiking, so when we heard about the story of ‘Two Porras and a Greek’ – Dina Do Couto, Grace Pereira and Maria Paschalides of Bedfordview Country Club Running Club in Johannesburg – heading to Portugal in June to walk the Camino de Santiago de Compostela pilgrim’s route, we asked them to send us the story.

Also known as the Way of St. James, the Camino de Santiago is the name of a number of pilgrimage routes to the shrine of the Apostle St. James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain, where the remains of the saint are said to be buried. With all three of us having run many marathons, we thought that walking an average of 30km per day following the scallop shell signs would be “a walk in the park.” Well, there were many uphills and downhills, stairs, cobblestone and pebble footpaths, and forest walkways, and they were far from “an easy walk.” Although we had trained for two months with our backpacks filled with six to seven kilograms of books, the continuous walking each day proved to be rather challenging, and yet the most rewarding and fulfilling outdoor experience of our lifetime.

Setting Forth
We started our journey on Sunday 4 June and at the first church we stopped at, we prayed for all our Comrades back in SA running the big race that same day. Our first day, 18km from Porto to Vila do Conde, having chosen the coastal route, made the first leg picturesque and calming. We felt fresh and alive, and the scenery was food for our souls as we ensured that we had our Pilgrims Passport stamped at the churches and inns to validate that we had walked that distance.

On the second day we had 32km to cover to Esposende, but what we didn’t know was that once we got into the town, we still had to walk to our Albergue (inn) where Pilgrims (or Peregrinos, backpackers like us) get a bed and a shower, which was another 6km. Thereafter, it was another couple of kilometres to a supermarket or a restaurant to get food. So day two was close to 40km. It had also been very windy, so we felt exhausted, plus the infamous blisters made their appearance on Grace’s right foot. To top it all, it began to rain so we wore every item of clothing in our backpacks to try stay warm!

The third day from the city of Esposende to Viana do Castelo (Castle at the top of the Hill) was about 27km. This route was mainly in the forests and it was here that we came upon two priests chanting in Polish at the Pilgrims Stone Pillar. We recorded them and often listened to this chant, especially when we felt we needed some higher power to get us through a stage. The greatest satisfaction was realising that we were getting stronger each day, and not feeling the weight on our backs as much, plus our core and leg strength had visibly improved.

Making New Friends
Sleeping at the inns was challenging. We had to learn to sleep in a room filled with snoring strangers, but it was a humbling reminder that we do not need much in a materialistic sense, and heart-warming to find that a great conversation can unfold even if speaking in a common language is difficult. This is also where we met several new friends from different countries and backgrounds, and our nights were time to relax with the other Pilgrims over a glass or two of Portuguese wine.

Day four was 25km from Viana do Castelo to Caminha, through the farmlands, up and down cobbled stone terrains through the villages and eventually into the town of Caminha. By now we had four Pilgrims (two Germans, one Austrian and a young girl from Canada) walking with us. The company was great and together we sang songs and shared stories of how to treat blisters and muscle fatigue. Thankfully, Herbert the Austrian had a fully kitted medical kit that had blister plasters, needles, thread and lots of magnesium tablets. We realised that we were not as prepared as we should have been…

The fifth day was nearly 37km from Caminha to Valenca, the last stop in Portugal. The seven of us started briskly, Manfred from Germany was celebrating his birthday and we had decided we would all picnic together, having packed fresh rolls, fruit and of course wine. Meanwhile, another of our new friends, Erdal, stopped at every church and landscape to draw sketches in his journal, and we began looking forward to seeing his next drawing.

We passed through the town of Vila Nova de Cerveira, known for its huge statue of a stag, and in the afternoon we walked the tarred section along the Minho River, which separates Spain from Portugal, and which was quite therapeutic, as it was the first time that we could walk at a fast pace. As we neared the day’s finish, a proud farmer took us on a tour of her greenhouse and gave us a huge 30cm-long courgette (baby marrow), which we shared in a salad that evening. Other farmers had given us green peppers, potatoes, fresh rolls, water and even bandages and plasters along the way, and we were humbled by the generosity of the locals.

Spanish Adventure
Day six was 42km, going from Valenca over the bridge to Porrino and then to Redondela. We said farewell to Portugal early in the morning and crossed into Spain, so we now changed our morning greeting from “Bom Dia” to “Buenos Dias.” In the first town, Tui, we came across the Camino Pilgrims’ Shop and spent a lot of time and Euros there, delaying our walk by more than an hour. We then rushed the morning walk and had a tough time dealing with blisters and pain, and had not covered anywhere near the planned distance for the day, so at 28km we made the decision to get a taxi to Redondela. It was a paradox of emotions: Guilt that we were not walking, and relief that we could let our feet take a break – but we quickly got over it.

On day seven we were off to Pontevedra, covering 27km. This was a busy route through the mountains and woodlands, with many backpackers en route to Santiago, as well as school groups, cyclists and a busload of Saturday hikers who complete each stage only on weekends. Needless to say, we felt a bit like we were on a highway during peak hour traffic, but the huge difference here is that even in this congestion, there was peace and serenity as each person was in awe of the picturesque surroundings. Pontevedra was abuzz with activity as a triathlon was underway and at 7pm we were still watching the action. That night we stayed at a monastery 7km out of town, where we had our own room and bath, and felt rather spoilt!

We then decided that we would take a chance the next day and follow an alternative route – the blue arrows of the Spiritual Route – which would still get us to our planned day eight destination at Vila De Arousa. The route was along the coast, and being a Sunday we passed many beaches filled with locals. We never saw any other Pilgrims, but being so enthralled by the surroundings, we never thought anything of it. Eventually by lunchtime, when we asked for some help with directions, we realised that although the Spiritual route is a genuine route to Santiago, it is much longer, and we would need three days to get to our destination. It was the first time that we felt a bit of concern and anxiety, so we once again made use of public transport to take us closer to where we were meant to be. We finally arrived at our Albergue at 8pm, 43km later, but the views that day were unforgettable, so we decided to name that day our best mistake!

Job Nearly Done
Monday was day nine, the final 53km stretch, and we were off by 7am, as we had to catch a ferry to Padron. We began our walk in silence, but with a sense of both excitement and apprehension, knowing that we had to finish that day, since we had booked our airplane tickets back. Our emotions were paralleled by sadness, as we also realised that our adventure would soon be coming to an end. The route was long and most pilgrims we met that day were going to stop halfway to rest, but we had no choice but to keep moving, so we tried to sing every song and play every memory game to keep our spirits up.

Herbert had decided to finish with us, so the four of us continued throughout the hottest day of our trip. We passed many churches and villages, and by about 5pm, still with 32-degree heat, we had reached Santiago. We then realised that we still had 7,5km to go before we reached the Church of St James, which was in the middle of the town. We all agreed that this was the hardest stretch, and each step seemed to take forever. It was like running a marathon and spectators start saying “you’re nearly there,” but you know that you still have to work very hard to get there. But we had no crowds cheering us on, the motivation had to come from within, and the desire to get there had gripped our emotions and squeezed out any negativity.

The excitement that overcame us as we entered into the square and began to ascend the stairs to the church was indescribable. Tourists and other Pilgrims were chatting and taking photos, oblivious of us as we held each other, tears pouring down our faces, our hugs so tight to prevent us from falling over with emotion, and complete exhaustion. There is no feeling that can equate to that realisation when you finish what you set out to achieve, and to do it with best friends in the most spiritual surroundings is by far one of the best experiences of our lives!

Running is a spiritual experience for me. It puts me into a meditative state while pushing my body to its limits – and trail running takes this concept to another level, where joy meets pain, and they combine to give you a feeling of bliss that no drug ever could. I’ve tried my fair share of artificial highs to be confident in stating that! – BY PJ MOSES

Maybe it is the altitude that helps, or the close proximity to nature, but the trails transport me back to an ancient past where we as a species were not just observers of nature, but active participants in its daily drama. We used to run to catch our food, to save ourselves from becoming a meal. It was natural, and it was part of our make-up as humans.

However, when we started making use of other animals as transport, we slowly lost our sense of joy at the thought of running. Now only a small percentage of humans run for fun, and even fewer brave the trails and deserts in search of that running high.

I discovered my love of running by accident, while searching for a distraction to help me combat the urges of giving up my 20-year smoking habit. The running bug bit, and I now find myself smiling at the idea of spending hours running and searching for my next adventure. Now I go out scrambling over rocks or hurtling down the side of a mountain, and escaping the matrix has become the new normal for me.

The exhilaration of summiting new mountain peaks unaided is the type of daring-do my life has been missing for too long. As I sit on a conquered peak and look out over the beauty of the world around me, I smile at the amazing blessing of this adventurous life, and I look forward to the next bold step toward an epic existence.

I hope the joy of running always makes me wake up with a smile, and lets me go to sleep with a peaceful heart at night. This is my daily prayer.

About the Author
PJ Moses is a former Cape Flats gangster who took up running when he turned his back on that dangerous lifestyle, in order to set a good example for his two young sons and make sure he would be there for them, instead of becoming just another crime statistic.

Discovering a love for running helped me to put my life back together again, and I just want to show my appreciation. – BY ERIC MCLAREN

I started running for the first time in my life in June 2015, at the ripe old age of 52. At the time my life had been turned completely upside down having discovered that my now ex-wife was cheating behind my back. I needed an outlet to clear my mind, so I decided to join the local Melkbos Athletic Club here in Cape Town, who welcomed me with open arms. The thought of getting fitter and healthier whilst losing weight and meeting new people at the same time appealed to me, although I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. I formed an instant bond with some trail runners and at the time I wasn’t to know that trail would be the direction I would be heading.

My first outing was a 6km time trial. I put on an old pair of walking Asics, donned a pair of board shorts and a plain cotton T-shirt, and then I set off, pushing the jog as far as I could until the chest started burning. After that I walked a few, then ran a few, and so it went. Eventually I finished with a time just short of 40 minutes. It was slow, but I did it and I felt good. It wasn’t long and I had already shed 8kg in body weight. I was starting to feel better and my times improved gradually. A proud moment was when I went sub-40 for the first time on the longer 8km time trial.

LOVING THE TRAILS
That same year I did a number of Dirtopia trail events and the Spur Winter Trail Series, in which I came third in the Masters Division at the last event. Actually, two of the stronger competitors in my division stayed home that day which opened the door for me to get podium, albeit by default. Still, it was a good feeling, and also the time I started believing in myself. That same year I did the 15km Bastille Day Trail Run, the 24km Matroosberg Challenge (which nearly killed me), and the 20km Cape Town Ultra Trail, where I was second in the Masters.

In 2016 I decided to be more selective in which runs I did, so I entered both the Spur Summer and Winter Trail Series, the 25km Bastille Day and The Beast 32km on Table Mountain. My breakthrough came in September when I entered the three-day Oyster Catcher Trail Run, coming 10th overall on day two and finishing 17th overall for the event. I was on cloud nine, but it got better from there when I finished first in the Masters Division in the 35km Cape Town Ultra Trail in December. I had just recently moved from pancake-flat Melkbos to Somerset West, which has more hills than I know what do with, and having the Helderberg Nature Reserve on my doorstep was an absolute blessing for my training.

This year I completed the AfricanX three-day stage trail run. However, my choice of nutrition on day one almost forced me to quit, suffering severe nausea halfway through the stage. A visit to the medical facility afterwards, where a drip was inserted, had me feeling a whole lot better. A good night’s rest and I was good to go on days two and three, but throwing all my nutrition plans out the window and running solely on water in my hydration pack, and Coke and bananas at water points. It’s back to the drawing board in the nutrition department for me.

Then in June I took on my biggest test to date, the 65km Fish River Ultra Marathon trail run. Although I’d never done this kind of distance in a single day, I was excited, because since 2014 I’d hiked the canyon five times, including a trip just a few weeks before the race to take a good look at the water level and which line to take.

HARD TO BELIEVE
I sit back and think that two years ago I couldn’t even run three kilometres, and now I’m taking on challenges like this, and that’s hard to comprehend. There is no hidden talent, of that I can be sure of. I just start a run saying to myself, “Enjoy it in your own time, you’re not going to win, and take the result as it comes.” What I do know is that I run with a big heart and quitting is the furthest thing from my mind. But most importantly, running has not only given me a new lease on life, I also met my partner, Carine, at last year’s Spur Winter Series. She is my biggest prize of all… Thank you, running!

I believe that you should never let anybody tell you that “you will never do this again,” because if you really want it, you can do it. – BY SU-YEN THORNHILL

For the last 10 years I haven’t had an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL). For those who don’t know what it is, it’s basically an essential bit of the knee that holds it in place, and most medical professionals will say that without reconstruction you are looking at a permanent disability, arthritis, pain and muscle deterioration. About 20 years ago I fell down some stairs and went over my knee. As you well know, that joint only bends one way, so you can imagine the agony when I flipped it. I had already ruptured the ACL in a lacrosse injury a few months prior and thereafter my knee would literally buckle and leave me in agony. I had the reconstruction and it was good for 10 years before I tore it again playing netball.

It was then that I moved to South Africa and was introduced to the multitude of outdoor sports available here, including trail running and triathlons. I set my sight on an Ironman and began my journey into the world of endurance training. I was 36 years old, and at first my knee was okay, but on my first 21km run, I overenthusiastically dashed towards the finish and sprinted on tired legs. There weren’t any obvious signs of distress to begin with, but the following day, while I was walking in the supermarket, my knee suddenly felt extremely stiff and within minutes it was swollen to five times its normal size.

LASTING EFFECT
I didn’t give it much thought, as over the years I’ve learned to live with it being a bit temperamental, but after three days of it remaining swollen, and with the Argus Cycle Tour looming in 10 days, I decided to seek advice. After an MRI at the Rosebank Sports Clinic, I was told the only way I could continue training was to undergo a second ACL reconstruction, with up to 18 months rehab, or I would never compete in anything again. I was given a dose of cortisone which reduced the swelling and was told to book in for surgery. I rode the Argus.

From there, I went on to complete my first Ironman, following a number of shorter distance races, got into trail running and to date have completed over 200 races, ranging from open water swims, trail, road, bike and triathlons. I might be pig-headed, but I refused to believe surgery was the only route to recovery. I worked with my personal trainer to strengthen all the muscles around the knee in order to keep it stable, and while there have been a few hiccups along the way, I haven’t allowed it to define me and keep me back. In the last couple of years, I also qualified as a yoga instructor and the improved core strength has also kept me racing.

SHOULD BE FASTER…
From time to time the knee still swells up, but rest, ice and respecting my body has kept me going, although recently, I’ve scaled back my racing as my business has taken off and I don’t have as much time to train. Having podiumed a few times and usually been near the top end of the finishers’ table, I thought I would find it difficult to take things easy. But I did… so easy, in fact, that I’m now often seen walking trail races!

It has been an incredible journey from racing snake to being just another person in the crowd. I had to contend with the ‘judgey’ voice in my own head that told me to push harder, to think about the expectation of those knowing you are in the race and were once a medal contender. Would I be teased from hero to zero? And do you know what? You get just as much of a cheer from the crowds coming last as you do first. You can admire the view and take in your surroundings. You make friends along the way and you are still out there enjoying yourself.

I still like to compete if I’m fit and strong, but I also want to be moving for the rest of my life, and if I have learned anything these past few years, it’s that life is movement… and never let anybody tell you otherwise. Whatever your age, you can still get out there and walk.

About the Author
Su-yen is a Johannesburg-based life coach, medical microbiologist and self-taught chef, as well as an ultra trail runner and Ironman triathlete. She teaches vinyasa yoga and brings to her practice all her life experiences to create an uplifting, soul-enhancing yoga experience. She will also take on any challenge, as she doesn’t understand the word ‘no.’

At the end of June, ultra trail runner Ryan Sandes added yet another prestigious win to his already impressive record when he won the Western States 100 Miler in California in the USA, but he had to overcome extreme racing conditions before he could finally claim the win he has been chasing since 2012. – BY SEAN FALCONER

Been there, won it… that’s pretty much how one can sum up 34-year-old Ryan Sandes’ ultra-distance trail running career. He burst onto the world stage in 2008 as he won both the Sahara and Gobi March events, two of the four races that make up the 4 Deserts Challenge. The following year he finished second in RacingThePlanet Namibia, then won the Jungle Ultra Marathon in Brazil, and then in 2010 he added the Atacama Desert and Antarctica events to not only join a very small group to have ever done all four of the big desert races, but become the only runner to have won all four of these gruelling 250km, six- to seven-day events.

More titles followed in the next few years. In 2011 he won the Leadville 100 Miler in the USA, in 2012 the North Face 100 Miler in Australia, and in 2014 he won the North Face TransGranCanaria on the Canary Islands, a race that forms part of the prestigious Ultra Trail World Series Tour, which he now competes on each year. But there was one win he still wanted, in a race that he had come to obsess about, the Western States 100 Miler in the USA. “It’s just an iconic event, the original 100-mile trail race, and has a lot of history,” explains Ryan. “The legends of the sport have run it and won it, including Scott Jurek, Kilian Jornet and others. But for me, what makes the race so cool is the community that gets behind the race. Well over 2000 volunteers work on a race that only takes around 350 entries each year!”

“I finished second there in my debut in 2012, with a super fast time that also broke the course record, but then in 2013 I injured my ankle six weeks before the race and couldn’t run. In 2014 I was fifth, but after too much racing that year I was overcooked. In 2015 I got sick the Thursday night before the race and woke up dizzy and nauseous. I still tried to register, but almost collapsed, so I stumbled back to the hotel and missed the race. Then in 2016 I didn’t go, so I wanted to go back in 2017 and finally put it to bed.”

BRUTAL RACING CONDITIONS
Well, that’s exactly what he did. Overcoming brutal running conditions, he maintained a steady pace throughout to eventually take the lead in the second half of the race, and went on to claim the win in 16 hours 19 minutes 39 seconds, but he admits it was one of the toughest years ever for this race. “After a really huge winter, there was loads of snow still on the mountains, and they even had a ‘plan B’ to avoid the snow, but they announced two days before the race that we would use the original route. The first 30km were all snow, which took up to 20% more energy than normal to get through and made it slow-going to start off, so we were already on the back foot by the time we got to the lower altitude – and then we were whacked by one of the hottest years ever. At times we hit hot pockets of air for about 2km that made you feel almost like you couldn’t breathe. A lot of the race came down to managing the heat and keeping cool.”

Pre-race, the American Jim Walmsley talked about going after the course record, saying he thought he could become the first runner to break 14 hours, and in spite of the snow, he went for it, but Ryan bided his time. “Jim went out really hard and gave it a full go, but speaking to him afterwards, it was cool that he didn’t make any excuses – he said he burnt all his matches and set himself alight. I was lying second most of the race, and at the back of my mind I thought Jim might come unstuck, so I tried to stay within reach. At Forest Hill, around 100km in, I think the gap was around 45 minutes, but I got feedback that he wasn’t looking good.”

“I passed him around the 120km mark, just before the Rucky-Chucky River crossing. He was walking and looked pretty broken, and I knew I had it if I just kept going. When I crossed that line, I was just elated. This win brought me huge satisfaction, because it had become my biggest ‘Bucket List’ event. I won’t lie, I don’t think I have ever been so shattered at a race finish, but at the same time so elated, because I had waited a long time for that win. It was a dream come true.”

FINALLY FEELING RIGHT AGAIN
What made the win still sweeter for Ryan was that he finally felt like he had gotten over two years of struggling with illness and loss of form, which he attributes to his exploits in 2014. “That was a really big year for me. I won the TransGranCanaria, the first race in the Ultra World Trail Tour, which encouraged me to over-race to maximise the points. I eventually finished second overall in the Tour and probably did way too much racing that year, having also done the Drakensberg Traverse record run. It caught up with me when I contracted glandular fever at the beginning of 2015, and that whole year was a write-off. I still did some races, but was always on the back foot.”

“Looking back now, that was my toughest year, not knowing if I could get over it, and at the end of 2015 I took two months off. Then I decided to go back to my core reason for running, to enjoy it. Some days I would head out, and if I was not enjoying the run after 10 minutes, I would just turn around and head home again. Luckily I worked through that, and in 2016 I had consistent results, but nothing big – fourth place at Grand Raid Reunion, third at Tarawera Ultra in New Zealand, fourth at Ultra Trail Australia. All were part of the World Ultra Trail Tour, and I ended up fourth overall in the Tour, so I was fairly happy with my season, but still disappointed, because I knew I could do better. This year, I haven’t raced as much, because I wanted to focus on Western States. It’s risky to focus on one race – if something goes wrong, all your eggs are in one basket – but I realised that you need to focus for races like this.”

BACK TO THE BUCKET LIST
Looking ahead, the big question now for Ryan is what to focus on next. “I have other races coming up on the World Tour, but Western States was that one race I really dreamed of winning; the other is Ultra Trail Mont Blanc in France. So part of me wants to go back to Western States next year to defend my title, but another part says I’ve ticked that off, so rather go to UTMB. In 2015 I dropped out at UTMB because of the effects of the glandular fever – my legs were nowhere after just 40km – and I went back in 2016 but had stomach issues and dropped out again. So I haven’t decided yet… still plenty of time.”

There’s nothing better than a soothing cup of herbal tea on a cold winter’s day, but besides being a tasty, warm, caffeine-free pick-me-up, herbal teas provide many health benefits. These herbal infusions are packed with powerful curative properties, aiding indigestion and relaxation. – BY SALOME SCHOLTZ, REGISTERED DIETICIAN

There are so many wonderful herbal teas on the market, so when it comes to choosing one, it’s important to look for a well-sourced product made from high-quality natural ingredients and which does not contain any added essential oils or flavours! Here are a few of the most common herbal teas which can all be found in your local supermarket, and their benefits.

Rooibos: Probably the most famous herbal tea in South Africa, it is high in vitamin C as well as other minerals. An easy drinking tea, it’s largely grown locally and has been touted for its antioxidant properties, which help ward off disease and signs of ageing. It has also been shown to help with common skin concerns, such as eczema.

Peppermint: This tea is recommended to relieve the symptoms of abdominal gas and bloating, and to relieve muscle spasms. It’s also good for nausea. However, if indigestion or heartburn are problems, it is recommended to avoid peppermint altogether. It can be made using fresh herbs from the garden, and it is one of the easiest herbs to grow. Peppermint is also said to cure bad breath!

Ginger: Another great digestive aid, ginger can be used to curb nausea, vomiting or motion sickness. Make fresh ginger tea by simmering a piece of ginger root on the stove for 10 to 15 minutes. Add fresh lemon juice and honey when you have a cold for a powerful germ-fighting combination. Ginger tea is also excellent for improving circulation, and is one of the best herbs for improving digestion, lung congestion and arthritis.

Chamomile: Used widely for stomach ailments and as a mild sedative, chamomile tea has also been shown to ease heartburn, nausea, and vomiting. A mouth rinse with chamomile may relieve mouth sores caused by cancer treatments, and some research suggests that chamomile could help with other conditions such as diarrhoea in children, haemorrhoids, anxiety and insomnia. When used on the skin, chamomile helps with skin irritation and wound healing.

BREW THE PERFECT CUP
When you are making your herbal tea, use fresh, cold water. Do not use aluminium cookware, as it can affect the taste – rather use glass, cast iron or stainless steel. A tea strainer is very helpful, as it lets you create your own blends of teas or herbs, and stops the leaves and flowers from escaping into the drink. Once the water has boiled, add one heaped teaspoon of herbs for every cup of water. Cover and let the herbs steep for ten minutes. Do not over-steep the herbs, as the flavour may become too strong and taste more medicinal than pleasant. If you want to enhance or sweeten the flavour of your tea, add honey or lemon.

About the Author
Salome is a registered dietician based in the Johannesburg area.